New York Times

The best dishes of the year? ... the smoked haddock tart at Le Caprice. It is early days yet over at Le Caprice, the new American outpost of London’s club-like Piccadilly snob-shop, but Michael Hartnell, the chef, has at least one good card to play: this marvelous appetizer. With smoked haddock still a relative rarity in the United States, its smoky sweetness is a small taste of British sophistication, especially against the melting gold of the two tiny poached quail eggs he places above the pastry. Eaten at the bar, after the application of a Hendrick’s martini, this dish can leave even the rubiest of American rubes feeling Bond-like and well fed.

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